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Where to eat

Cafes

CECI CELA PATISSERIE
55 Spring Street, New York, NY 10012 (00 1 212 274 9179). Recommended for its croissants and pains au chocolat, but also serves quiche and sandwiches. Be prepared to stand in line with regulars such as Lou Reed and Steffi Graf. Open daily.

DEAN & DELUCA
560 Broadway, New York, NY 10012 (00 212 226 6800). Selling everything from caviar to coffee, truffles to tea, this is the city's foodie paradise for those-in-the-know and the Sex and the City girls. A wide selection of gourmet foods, wines, kitchenware, cookbooks, gifts and recipes are available. Open daily.

SWEET MELISSA
276 Court Street, Brooklyn, NY 11231 (00 1 718 855 3410; fax: 855 3817). An excellent patisserie with a full restaurant menu available, including quiche du jour and poached salmon. Be sure to take it in the sunny back garden. Open daily.

Restaurants

21 CLUB
21 West 52nd Street, New York, NY 11019 (00 1 212 582 7200). A New York institution, once a Prohibition-era speakeasy, the 21 Club offers excellent cocktails and an extensive win list. The menu encompasses comforting dishes from crab cakes and braised short ribs to '21 Classics' such as creamy chicken hash and Caesar salad. NB Jacket and tie required.

AQUAVIT
65 East 55th Street, New York, NY 10022 (00 1 212 307 7311). This ideally located restaurant, between Park and Madison Avenues, is the home to world-renowned Scandinavian cooking with an Oriental twist. Chef Marcus Samuelsson, from Sweden's Gothenburg, is one of the best chefs in New York. The interior is stylishly Scandinavian, with more than a few items designed by Danish master Arne Jacobsen. Try the house made aquavits - anise, caraway and fennel for the brave and cucumber for the lightweights. Visit the restaurant's little sister, AQ Cafe in Scandinavia House on 58 Park Avenue (00 1 212 847 9727; open Mon-Sat), for a lighter bite. Open Mon-Sat, lunch and dinner; Sun, dinner only.

BAGATELLE
409 W 13th St Meatpacking District, New York (00 1 212 675 2400). Following the success of Pastis and Paradou, boys-about-town Remi Laba and Aymeric Clemente (a former manager at La Goulue) have opened this upscale French bistro in the heart of the Meatpacking Distict. The décor is simple, and smart, with a buzzy bar area and white tablecloths. Expect sophisticated, rich Provençal classics courtesy of chef Nicolas Cantrel - buttery pasta with veal juice, ham, and Swiss cheese, tartine with goats cheese and tomato confit, and roasted chicken with truffles and warm asparagus salad; plus the ubiquitous steak-frites. Desserts include 'Le Paris Brest' a choux pastry concoction with cream and almonds. The wine list has many French options; only a few are offered by the glass.

BALTHAZAR RESTAURANT
80 Spring Street, New York, NY 10012 (00 1 212 965 1414; fax: 343 1274). Opened by British restaurateur Keith McNally in downtown SoHo, Balthazar is a French-style brasserie with authentic Parisian furnishings. Has an excellent bakery attached. Open daily.

BOUCHON BAKERY
3rd Floor, Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, New York, NY 10019 (00 1 212 823 9366). The Bouchon Bakery brasserie offers comfort food with a strong French emphasis. Also serves a good breakfast.

BOULEY
120 West Broadway, New York, NY 10013 (00 1 212 964 2525; fax: 693 7490). Opened by David Boulay, one of America's most glamorous celebrity chefs, the Bouley is even more bread-orientated than Balthazar, being essentially a bakery with a restaurant attached. Open daily.

BUDDAKAN
75 9th Avenue, New York, NY 10011 (00 1 212 989 6699). Chinese food aficionados who like to be seen head to Buddakan, a former cookie factory which has been transformed into a vast maze of dining rooms, the centrepiece of which is the Chinoiserie hall with two-storey high, oak-covered walls. Tuna spring rolls, wok hay frog legs or tea smoked chicken feature on the innovative menu.

BURGER JOINT
Le Parker Méridien 118 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 (00 1 212 245 5000). Hidden behind a curtain next to the reception at Le Parker Méridien, Burger Joint is New York's best-kept secret. The menu, scrawled on a cardboard sign, offers 'hamburger' or 'cheeseburger', plus the advice to 'Get to the back of the line'. That's quite an incentive since at times most of Manhattan seems to be in the line. The burger comes wrapped in waxed paper on a paper plate. But what a burger: it's fat, firm, perfectly pink and insanely juicy, and a bargain.

CAFE LUXEMBOURG
200 West 70th Street, New York, NY 10023 (00 1 212 873 7411). Located between Amsterdam and West End Avenues, this Upper West Side restaurant offers moderately priced American-French food. Also open for brunch on weekends.

CORNER BISTRO
331 West 4th Street, New York, NY 10014 (00 1 212 242 9502). There are frat boys where there were once good old boys, but nothing else has changed at this century-old West Village diner. Nevertheless, getting a seat is even more difficult than getting a smile from your waiter. Three chefs toil non-stop, sending out exquisitely charred hamburgers loaded with lettuce, beef tomato and shiny, briny pickle.

CRU
24 5th Avenue, New York, NY 10011 (00 1 212 529 1700; fax: 529 6300). For an exceptional wine list, head to Cru and choose from over 110,000 bottles to accompany uncomplicated but well-flavoured dishes such as saffron tagliolini and a tasting plate of Berkshire pig.

DB BISTRO MODERNE
55 West 44th Street, New York, NY 10036 (00 1 212 391 2400). Famous for its gourmet burger: ground sirloin stuffed with braised and short-ribs, foie gras and truffles.

ELAINE'S
1703 2nd Avenue, New York, NY 10128 (00 1 212 534 8114). A less expensive but still very charming restaurant on the Upper East Side, located between 88th and 80th Streets. Michael Caine and Woody Allen have both been known to eat here.

ISLAND BURGERS AND SHAKES
766 9th Avenue, New York, NY 10019 (00 1 212 307 7934). Six types of bread, seven types of cheese, and 14 different hamburgers: enough for even the choosiest of New Yorkers.

JAPONAIS
111 E. 18th Street, New York, NY (00 1 212 260 2020). Japonais opened in 2006, with branches in both Chicago and Las Vegas. The restaurant, serving Japanese-French fusion cuisine, is a gigantic, glamorous space designed by architect Jeffrey Beers (who has worked with I.M Pei & Partners) with undulating strips of wood on the ceiling, red-brick walls, semicircular booths along one wall and shiny red chairs. A lovely veranda allows outdoor dining in the summer months and there is a buzzy upstairs lounge overlooking the main dining area for those seeking lighter fare. The crowd, unsurprisingly, is trendy- 20 and 30 something's who come for the cool cocktails, club-like vibe and excellent, fresh sushi. The menu is extensive, although slightly confusing, with elusive subsections titled 'Les Soupes' and 'Les Salades', plus a list of starters and sushi rolls. This is a mega-scale production for which there are two chefs - sushi comes courtesy of chef Jun Ichikawa, whilst hot dishes are created by Gene Kato.

The simplest dishes are far and away the best; these include all the sushi and sashimi dishes, particularly the 'Spicy Mono' and 'Tuna Tuna Salmon'; plus the signature dish, 'The Rock' (strips of beef sirloin cooked on a piping-hot rock in front of you). 'Le quack Japonais' is a witty take on Chinese Peking duck, with fat slices of duck breast smoked with maple leaves, eaten win wraps with cucumber, scallions and mango chutney. Desserts are excellent, try the apple toban yaki, (not unlike apple pie) and the pumpkin cheesecake. There is an extensive cocktail and international wine list. Expensive.

JG MELON
1291 Third Avenue at 74th Street, New York, NY 10021 (00 1 212 74 0585). A favourite haunt of Upper East Side preppies with down-at-heel pretensions and a penchant for juicy burgers.

LA ESQUINA
106 Kenmare Street, New York, NY 10012 (00 1 646 613 1333). Located on Kenmare Street on the border of Soho and Nolita, La Esquina is three eateries rolled into one. There's the sleek restaurant hidden in the basement (head to the 'Employees only' entrance) where a hip clientele tucks into Mexican dishes of ceviche and slow roasted pork; the café for a lighter bite, try the avocado and tomatillo soup; and a take-away taqueria for tacos and tortas.

MIGNON
394 Court Street, Brooklyn, NY 11231 (00 1 718 222 8383). The focus at Mignon is on southern French classics with a touch of North Africa.

NOBU
105 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10013 (00 1 212 219 0500; fax: 219 1441). The flagship restaurant of Chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa who produces a fusion of South American and Japanese food. This pricey TriBeCa haunt is crammed with celebrities. Reservations are hard to get.

ODEON
145 West Broadway, New York, NY 10013 (00 1 212 233 0507; fax: 406 1962). The pioneer in TriBeCa, perfect for brasserie-style food and marvellous martinis. Less expensive than other restaurants in the area.

PASTIS
9 9th Avenue, New York, NY 10014 (00 1 212 929 4844). Another Keith McNally restaurant, this one on the corner of Little West 12th Street in the Meatpacking district. Inspired by the food McNally ate on a 740-mile cycle ride through France, it has a strong emphasis on cuisine Provençale.

PETER LUGER STEAK HOUSE
178 Broadway, Brooklyn, NY 11211 (00 1 718 387 7400). Famous for its steaks, this Brooklyn landmark also serves killer burgers at lunch-time.

POP BURGER
58-60 9th Avenue, New York, NY 10011 (00 1 212 414 8686). Pop is like McDonald's with a Ninth Avenue twist. Think staff in boiler suits, in-house DJs and burgers delivered in plain-white cardboard boxes. The burgers here are 'sliders'; small, easy-on-the-mouth, two to a portion and very fashionable in these parts. Pop also serves the best fries in town.

SHAKE SHACK
Madison Square Park, Madison Avenue at 23rd Street, New York, NY 10010 (00 1 212 889 6600). A summer-only kiosk from Danny Meyer (of the Union Square Café and Gramercy Tavern). The excellent, cooked-to-order burgers and thick, icy shakes make the traffic fumes bearable.

TARTINE
253 West 11th street, New York, NY 10014 (00 1 212 229 2611). Expect to queue to get into this cosy French bistro in the West Village, but it's worth the wait. Tartine offers traditional favourites including French onion soup, goat's cheese and basil quiche and tempting desserts. There's no alcohol licence but diners can bring their own bottle.

THE MODERN
MoMA, 9 West 53rd Street, New York, NY 10019 (00 1 212 333 1220). At The Modern in the Museum of Modern Art, choose between a table in the Dining Room, overlooking the Sculpture Garden, or in the Bar Room, which bustles with the vibrancy of the city. Highlights of the Alsatian-inspired cuisine include tartare of tuna and scallops with Yellowstone River caviar and Long-island duck breast with black trumpet marmalade.

THE RIVER CAFE
1 Water Street, Brooklyn, New York, NY 11201 (00 1 718 522 5200; fax: 875 0037). A much-praised restaurant located in the shadow of the Brooklyn Bridge. Owner Michael 'Buzzy' O'Keeffe has become known for training the stars of US restaurant kitchens here, and the food is modern American with a hint of the Old World.

THE SPOTTED PIG
314 West 11th Street, New York, NY 10014 (00 1 212 620 0393). Don't be surprised to be sitting next to Natalie Portman or Anna Wintour and this popular English gastro pub in the West Village. British chef April Bloomfield, who spent four years at London's River Café alongside Jamie Oliver, serves up a mix of British and Italian dishes. Expect pan fried calf's liver with crispy pancetta and smoked haddock chowder with homemade crackers.

THOR
The Hotel on Rivington, 107 Rivington Street, New York, NY 10002 (00 1 212 475 2600; fax: 475 5959). A hip crowd fills the large, modern dining room at Thor, where a 21-foot glass ceiling offers views of the Lower East Side's tenement buildings.

TOWN
Chambers Hotel, 15 West 56th Street, New York, NY 10019 (00 1 212 582 4445). Both the food and the diners are wonderfully rich at chef Geoffrey Zakarian's restaurant on the lower level of the Chambers Hotel (see Where to Stay). Try risotto of escargots with sweet garlic and black truffles or duck steak with fragrant endive and soba buckwheat pilaf.

VERITAS
43 East 20th Street, New York, NY 10003 (00 1 212 353 3700). At Veritas, the emphasis is on wine the wine list features over 175,000 bottles. The menu includes simple dishes, strong on flavour. Try hamachi tartare or roast organic chicken.

VONG
200 East 54th Street, New York, NY 10022 (00 1 212 486 9592). Popular French-Thai restaurant run by New York's celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. He has also opened a small and rather pricey New American eatery, Jean-Georges (00 1 212 299 3900), in Donald Trump's hotel on Central Park West.